I have complied Wfview server and running it on a PI4 connected to my 7300. Its working in RX but I am seeing this error:
2024-07-23 21:40:31.453 Unknown waveform data received
In TX it crashes with the following errors:
ALSA lib pcm.c:8545:(snd_pcm_recover) underrun occurred
2024-07-23 21:46:36.128 Could not open serial port “ttyUSB2” , please restart.
2024-07-23 21:46:36.129 Error using port “ttyUSB2” message: “Could not open port. Please restart.”
2024-07-23 21:46:36.129 servermain: received error for device: “ttyUSB2” with message: “Could not open port. Please restart.”
2024-07-23 21:46:36.605 QIODevice::write (QSerialPort): device not open
2024-07-23 21:46:36.605 QIODevice::write (QSerialPort): device not open
Mike Black, W9MDB has provided a checklist for reducing RF inside the shack. I’ve just looked on his QRZ.com page and I can’t see it but he regularly posts it on other forums, especially WSJT-X one. Some of the grounding rules are not applicable outwith the United States.
I’m sure you can find hie e-mail, but I won’t publish it here.
You post quite often a checklist for reducing RFI in the shack. I wanted to post a link to this on another forum (WFView), but couldn’t find it on your QRZ.com page.
Do you think it should be there, or a link to where you do host it?
Tests
If problems are occurring only during transmit: #1 Reduce power to zero and see if the problem stops – if it does stop than it is definitely RFI. You will see certain higher power levels on certain bands that cause problems.
Then, if problems are occurring during non-transmit periods it indicates a system problem with USB devices so… #1 Check USB Power Management option is turned off on all USB devices
Device Manager for Windows.
For Linux set autosuspend=-1 Power Management for USB — The Linux Kernel documentation
RFI Fixes: #1 Free – try coiling up your cables. #2 Free - Move USB cables to another port – some ports are more susceptible than others. #3 Free – Check your grounding system. rod-outside-the-shack is a common problem when it’s not bonded to the main house ground.
Common grounding mistakes, sources, and solutions:
A. Ground rod outside the shack that is not bonded to the main house ground.
B. Shack equipment bonded incorrectly (e.g. daisy chained instead of common ground point)
C. Desktop computer grounded to the house ground and not the shack ground. Run a separate RF ground from the computer chassis to your station RF ground.
For a laptop use the retaining screw of a DB9 or DB25 connector shell, if your device still has them.
D. Ethernet cables that bring RFI into the computer…which then ends up going to the rig too since the ethernet shield is tied to the case which is tied to USB shield which is tied to pin 4 on the USB cable (a very common problem on most all USB devices – see my QRZ page).
Ethernet patch cables up through CAT6 are UTP, which stands for UNSHIELDED Twisted Pairs, four to be specific. There is NO separate shield conductor in the jacket, nor a metallic shield around the RJ45 connector itself.
Just use a ferrite toroid at each end.
E. Wall warts – 24VAC supplies in sprinkler and alarm systems are notorious for picking up RFI into your electrical system.
24 VAC transformers can be RF-bypassed using .005 ufd caps from each output lead to safety ground. You can often use the cover plate mounting screw as your ground connection.
F. Speaker wires The same approach as E also works for external speaker audio leads.
G. Lamps (yes…lamps around the house have unshielded wires as do many other appliances).
H. Washer/Dryers are notorious for generating and picking up RFI. In general, newer high-efficiency models have more RF problems.
Ferrite toroids INSIDE the appliance housing can work wonders if the wiring harness has connectors in the AC line input, OR an external noise filter for the AC line cord of a washing machine can reduce RF spurs by 25 dB or more.
I. HVAC systems with variable speed blower control systems both cause RF noise and react badly to RF fields – we believe adding torroids inside the unit on the power lines will work.
J. If you use a powered USB expansion hub, add a ferrite toroid on the cable coming from the USB power supply.
K. SignaLink – You can ground the metal box shell by simply wrapping an 18ga wire (or use a small crimped ring or spade terminal) under the head of any of the screws holding the rear panel, then connect to your station RF ground.
The case is isolated from both USB and analog audio signal grounds, so this does not affect use of the USB shield isolators.
L. DC power supply – both linear and switching – READ THE PS MANUAL FIRST! This step may void some manufacturers’ warranty and UL/CSA approvals.
Remove any jumpers between the DC negative output lead and PS chassis or line cord ground Add a .005 ufd cap from each DC output lead to chassis ground if not already there.
NOTE: Samlex DC outputs are already isolated and bypassed, but many others, including Astron, may randomly have the negative side grounded and no RF bypassing.
B through L may all need chokes. http://www.k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
M. Certain antenna setups need chokes to avoid common mode feedback which can appear as RFI.
#4 Free – start unplugging devices around the house and see if there’s one device that is acting as a bad source of RFI. This presupposes you can easily repeat the problem on your rig setup. #5 Cheap – Add some USB shield isolators (see my QRZ page). I use one on my SignaLink for example. #6 Minimal $$ – Good USB cables like this
50Hz/60Hz/110Hz/120Hz noise in your shack
50Hz/60Hz noise is produced from 50Hz/60Hz mixing with your audio chain. Usually due to grounding problems (see above).
100Hz/120Hz noise comes from AC Hum of noisy power sources. You can frequently choke these devices.
#1 Need to be able to run the rig/test setup on battery so you can still see the problem when removing power. #2 Turn off main breaker to house – that tells you if it is in your house or outside (e.g. neighbors A/C unit). #3 If in house – turn off breakers – easy way is binary search – turn off half – that tells you which half has the problem (repeat and rinse). Reduces the # of trips to the breaker box if you are doing this by yourself. #4 Once a breaker is found start unplugging things from that circuit and you should find the culprit.
Common sources:
Anything with a motor (e.g. frig, washer, dryer, furnace, fan) – these can usually be choked on the power line
Flourescent and LED lights
Wall warts and switching power supplies
I use a wire run to a cold water pipe. It’s really not “ideal” but I don’t have any problems with RF where I don’t expect it. My guess is this hardly does anything. I attribute my relative success to the use of generally well-matched antennas. On HF that’s my EFHW, which I don’t use a tuner on and access 40/20/15/10M.
I did have an issue where, when I ran my Henry 2k4 on 40M, I could cause some network issues. This is not really a grounding issue so much as it is a consequence of having very long ethernet runs throughout the house and running a lot of power mere feet from several runs. In any case, I put ferrite beads on both ends of each long ethernet run and the problem went away. At 100W I’ve never had any issues like that.
I’d say, check your SWR and make an attempt to keep the antenna and feedline as far from the computer and computer cables as you can. Eliminate anything you don’t need connected up, at least for now. Add snap on ferrites to each cable uses by the computer, possibly at each end. You can get a box of ferrite beads from Amazon for about $10.